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Flickering Problem ~ Hyundai Sonata Nf <fixes>


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#1
ayluvb3ech

Posted 09 September 2012 - 12:43 AM

ayluvb3ech

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Just want to document this down so that anyone having the same problem could refer to this.

Symptom: Car momentarily loss power, aircon blower slows down, headlamp flickers, radio giving out loud 'pop' sound, ABS lights up momentarily during deceleration or coasting to a stop.

Reason: Faulty positive battery cable. Causing inconsistent current flow from Alternator to battery.

Part purchase from: kimchi.autoparts@Yahoo.com (rm 200 inclu. delivery fr S.Korea)

To diagnose it: Replace cable if voltage differential of >0.2v between alternator and +ve terminal. (Usually this problem - in my case it's 0.7v!!).

Part Replacement: 918503K111 Positive Battery Cable (Revised).

This is a known issue:

http://www.amdmaddne...p_diagnosis.pdf


Old cable is 91850K012 [if your's is still this, it's jz a matter of time the problem will pop out]. Below is the old cable:


IMG_20120908_152010 by


Spent my afternoon fixing this on my car. Ordered the revised part replacement as per above.

Tools needed:
1. Ratchet 3/8" [with extension] + 10mm + 12mm socket wrench.
2. Ratchet 1/4" [with extension] + 10mm + 12mm socket wrench
3. Philips screwdriver.

Step 1:

Remove battery, junction box cover (Fius box cover), and battery base.


IMG_20120908_144534 by


IMG_20120908_165857 by

At the junction box, remove the first 2 screw (Red and Blue) and take out the wire terminals from the junction box.

Once you loosen the battery base, remove the 1 nut holding the positive cable plastic harness near the air filter box.


IMG_20120908_145343 by


IMG_20120908_165857 by

Then disconnect the thin wire (harnessed to the battery base.
Hyundai Sonata NF 2.0 (G4KA)

#2
ayluvb3ech

Posted 09 September 2012 - 12:45 AM

ayluvb3ech

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In order to remove the cable from the alternator (1 connection) and starter (2 connection), you need to first unscrew this metal harness near the autobox dipstick. See below:



IMG_20120908_164739 by
Step 2:

Remove the Radiator Fan and Bottom Splash Guard (big and small piece)

Note, you need to loosen 3 screws from the top radiator fan, gently unclip the bottom left and right of the radiator fan from the radiator. Remember to disconnect the wire to the fan as well.


IMG_20120908_171000 by


IMG_20120908_170637 by jimmyktp, on Flickr

Step 3:

Unscrew the nut from alternator holding the positive cable.


IMG_20120908_164813 by

Then unscrew the nut which holds the positive cable on the starter side.


IMG_20120908_171842 by

There's another small wire connecting to the starter. (This is a lil tricky to remove). Fiddle around for a clip which could disconnect the connector.

Step 4:

Replacement of new cable.

Do note that the old cable is a design flaw due to the hot cable (alternator cable) and starter cable runs next to the hot engine block. This could be the reason why the cable life is so short. Flickering/Loss of power problem gets worse on hot days.

The revised cable is shaped like an L shape (Slightly longer). The revised cable (alternator cable only) now runs next to the intake manifold before going "down" connecting to the alternator. Initially I wuz a lil puzzled why the cable shaped like an L, until I realised it's routed to stay away from the hot engine block.

Assembling is the reverse of Step 1-3.


Finally, after 3 hours (My problem solved). Took slightly longer as I took my sweet time to clean the battery base, wash the plastic splash guard and clean the areas that I work on. However, this kind of fix, I dread to think how some mechanics (if not most) would really put their hearts to replace as it involves removing many screws (esp the splashguard!). It's always good to DIY as you know you took care of everything.



Another cheaper alternative:

If you want to save money (and hassle), you could do a simple modification.

Modify by adding (1x 4AWG) OR (2x 8AWG - if u can't find 4AWG ones as they're kinda rare) wire(s) from alternator to +ve battery terminal.

If you don't mind adding that. For me, i'd prefer to keep my wirings original (except for a pair of HIDs).
Hyundai Sonata NF 2.0 (G4KA)

#3
IsaacVky

Posted 09 September 2012 - 12:58 AM

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great work bro.

#4
Kevin

Posted 09 September 2012 - 09:32 AM

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Thanks for this. I think I'll let the mechanic do this smile_tongue.gif

#5
Kevin

Posted 10 September 2012 - 03:18 PM

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For those who are sourcing for 918503K111 from Sime Darby Hyundai, please note that their parts catalogue does not have this part! They only have 918503K012 (the original positive cable) and 918503K110 (a discontinued cable that I assume preceded 918503K111 - both of which were meant for the Hyundai Azera).

I am not technically inclined nor do I have the time to patiently source for parts myself. So, putting myself in Hyundai's shoes, it is almost impossible for them to order 918503K111 from them.

FYI, both K012 and K110 have the same description "Wiring Assembly - Battery" and cost RM475.00 each!!!

#6
ayluvb3ech

Posted 10 September 2012 - 03:32 PM

ayluvb3ech

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QUOTE (Kevin @ Sep 10 2012, 03:18 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
For those who are sourcing for 918503K111 from Sime Darby Hyundai, please note that their parts catalogue does not have this part! They only have 918503K012 (the original positive cable) and 918503K110 (a discontinued cable that I assume preceded 918503K111 - both of which were meant for the Hyundai Azera).

I am not technically inclined nor do I have the time to patiently source for parts myself. So, putting myself in Hyundai's shoes, it is almost impossible for them to order 918503K111 from them.

FYI, both K012 and K110 have the same description "Wiring Assembly - Battery" and cost RM475.00 each!!!



that's why korean cars in malaysia got low resale value.. even the company that brings the car in doesn't carry the parts..

called mobis, they say they don't sell this kinda stuffs.. maybe what they sell is oil filter and engine oil only...

fyi K111 is the latest part no. the first no. after the alphabet denotes the version.
Hyundai Sonata NF 2.0 (G4KA)

#7
jcetham007

Posted 12 September 2012 - 04:07 PM

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QUOTE (ayluvb3ech @ Sep 9 2012, 12:45 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
In order to remove the cable from the alternator (1 connection) and starter (2 connection), you need to first unscrew this metal harness near the autobox dipstick. See below:



IMG_20120908_164739 by jimmyktp, on Flickr

Step 2:

Remove the Radiator Fan and Bottom Splash Guard (big and small piece)

Note, you need to loosen 3 screws from the top radiator fan, gently unclip the bottom left and right of the radiator fan from the radiator. Remember to disconnect the wire to the fan as well.


IMG_20120908_171000 by jimmyktp, on Flickr


IMG_20120908_170637 by jimmyktp, on Flickr

Step 3:

Unscrew the nut from alternator holding the positive cable.


IMG_20120908_164813 by jimmyktp, on Flickr

Then unscrew the nut which holds the positive cable on the starter side.


IMG_20120908_171842 by jimmyktp, on Flickr

There's another small wire connecting to the starter. (This is a lil tricky to remove). Fiddle around for a clip which could disconnect the connector.

Step 4:

Replacement of new cable.

Do note that the old cable is a design flaw due to the hot cable (alternator cable) and starter cable runs next to the hot engine block. This could be the reason why the cable life is so short. Flickering/Loss of power problem gets worse on hot days.

The revised cable is shaped like an L shape (Slightly longer). The revised cable (alternator cable only) now runs next to the intake manifold before going "down" connecting to the alternator. Initially I wuz a lil puzzled why the cable shaped like an L, until I realised it's routed to stay away from the hot engine block.

Assembling is the reverse of Step 1-3.


Finally, after 3 hours (My problem solved). Took slightly longer as I took my sweet time to clean the battery base, wash the plastic splash guard and clean the areas that I work on. However, this kind of fix, I dread to think how some mechanics (if not most) would really put their hearts to replace as it involves removing many screws (esp the splashguard!). It's always good to DIY as you know you took care of everything.



Another cheaper alternative:

If you want to save money (and hassle), you could do a simple modification.

Modify by adding (1x 4AWG) OR (2x 8AWG - if u can't find 4AWG ones as they're kinda rare) wire(s) from alternator to +ve battery terminal.

If you don't mind adding that. For me, i'd prefer to keep my wirings original (except for a pair of HIDs).


This is a most helpful posting. A big thank you.
jcetham

#8
Kevin

Posted 10 October 2012 - 10:09 PM

Kevin

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QUOTE (ayluvb3ech @ Sep 10 2012, 03:32 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
that's why korean cars in malaysia got low resale value.. even the company that brings the car in doesn't carry the parts..

called mobis, they say they don't sell this kinda stuffs.. maybe what they sell is oil filter and engine oil only...

fyi K111 is the latest part no. the first no. after the alphabet denotes the version.

Would like to check with you whether one of your symptoms include the engine cutting off while idling?

#9
ayluvb3ech

Posted 11 October 2012 - 01:28 PM

ayluvb3ech

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QUOTE (Kevin @ Oct 10 2012, 10:09 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Would like to check with you whether one of your symptoms include the engine cutting off while idling?



yups! momentarily.. <1 sec..

very easy to diagnose, while idling, on your cabin lights. is it flickering? and doesn't when u step on the accelerator? if you experience that, then it's the +ve cable..
Hyundai Sonata NF 2.0 (G4KA)

#10
Kevin

Posted 07 November 2012 - 04:42 PM

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Ordered my positive battery terminal cable from kimchiautoparts on 25/10/2012 and it arrived in less than 2 weeks, all nicely packaged.

This seller is recommended smile_thumbup.gif