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[important] Peugeot Al4 Gearbox Advice


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#21
Andy214

Posted 16 January 2008 - 06:21 PM

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konno81,

"1. Oh ya, did "Automatic Gear Fault" showed on your console? '- No "
This is good news *hopefully*... *PRAY*
Better get it check fast before this sign shows.

"i got my car end of july 2006 "
End Of July 2006 to Jan 2008? It's more than 1 year already. Hm... advice
is change ATF Oil every 30,000KM or 1 year, whichever comes first. Plus,
your car could be manufactured early 2006, which would make it almost 2
year.

At 50-60K or 2 year, according to Autochild, it is suggested that you do
a full ATF Flush. But it's up to you to decide. You can check with the
mechanic on the condition of the ATF Oil, if it's bad/not good, then you
can condsider do a full flush.

"-from Jul 06-April this year(07) been travelling from
Klang/Ampang /Jalan Ipoh everyday, then
when i've been tranferred to Kch, not really travelling around....my
house n my working place
only about 10km, but quite bumpy road because they doing road
construction over here... "
When you're in Klang Valley and KL time, it's heavy traffic most of the
time and long drive. So, you should chnage your ATF Oil every 30,000KM or
1 year. Best if you can do it earlier.


"Did you speed often (rev high) or use sports mode often? Or maybe you
can share your driving habit? "
When you speed, did you always rev very high and constant high speed? It
will raise the temperature of the gearbox and I'm not sure if Peugeot has
built-in function to warn the driver on the gearbox temperature like the
new Mitsubishi Lancer.

"-no, but i shipped my car here...(mcm ni bleh kira ker..?) "
Not sure if it would do any harm, just doing survey as I know if you stay
near sea area/salt water, metals get rusty easily, so not sure if these
could do any harm/effect on cars.
But talk about shipping cars, those CBU cars are shipped too, and it's
inside the container. So I guess it shouldn't be a problem. The only
question is, who drove the car to the port and back to you? Is by someone
else, who knows if the person speed/race the car, right? Even those
people delivering cars are speeding and racing with the NEW car and also
seen some tailgating other drivers.

"-i have no problem with this car from the day i got it, only till
now...huhu...i usually warmed up my car about 5-10 min everyday before i
drive.. "
Wow, 5-10 min? I read that all modern cars does not need warming up, you
can drive straight after starting the car, but do not speed/rev high when
the engine temperature hasn't rise to normal temperature. It's stated in
the manual as well. "Do not race a cold engine".
My friend still warm up the car, but it only takes 1-2 minute, if you
prefer to warm the car first, just wait untill the temperature rise to
the normal temperature, then you can start to drive.
Else, you're just wasting petrol.

Lastly, good luck on your visit to the SC. Hopefully it just need an ATF
Oil change.


#22
konno81

Posted 16 January 2008 - 08:08 PM

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andy...

aghhh...thank you...i'm not good in car maintainance rite...
been to S&C previously, never been told about the gearbox oil.. Angry

it's been my family habit to warm up the car before drive......Smile hhehhe

will update later after the visit to S&C next week...thanks again..

#23
Andy214

Posted 17 January 2008 - 09:07 AM

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konno81,

I'm also just learning, and sharing what I've found, it may not be 100%
correct tough, you should double check with the SC as well as other Pug
members. They have more experience with it. I don't hope to see people
suffer from problems especially the AL4 which is very serious and
annoying. I believe every driver would understand the feeling of having a
serious problem, and it seems to not able to fix and keeps repeating
until it fails. Worst is when you know it's a common problem, and these
SC just repeat the same mistake.

Hehe, many people still warm up their car first. There's no wrong or
right, just sharing what I know. So if you prefer to warm up first, just
wait till the engine temperature rises to normal, then you can start your
journey, usually will take about 1-2 minutes if I'm not wrong.
Else, when it's not warm yet, don't speed your car/stress the engine.

A Pug member just replied on another thread about NOT to flush the ATF.
So hold on to that while I wait for his reply.


#24
Andy214

Posted 17 January 2008 - 01:57 PM

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konno81,

I recieved reply, heard there's members who have problems after flushing.
I missed out a section on the Citroen PDF stating what to do if the Oil
is dirty:
"If the oil is particularly dirty it may be best to repeat the whole
process in about 1000kms. When changing the fluid in an automatic box
there is always some left in the torque converter (up to 2 litres), so
that you wonˇ¦t get completely clean fluid with one change. Sometimes up
to three changes will be needed.
Remember to dispose of any used oil in an environmentally friendly
manner ˇV your local council garbage depot is usually a good place as
they have oil recycling facilities."

So, if you find it dirty, you can repeat the Oil change process in about
1000kms as adviced.



#25
konno81

Posted 17 January 2008 - 05:39 PM

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Andy..

"If the oil is particularly dirty it may be best to repeat the whole
process in about 1000kms. When changing the fluid in an automatic box
there is always some left in the torque converter (up to 2 litres), so
that you wonˇ¦t get completely clean fluid with one change. Sometimes up
to three changes will be needed."

ermm...maybe i hold on the changing and see how the S&C guys say... will change if needed
to...but andy, this means that if i change at 30k, maybe i need to change at 40K,50K and 60K isn't
it?
me->Dead

#26
Andy214

Posted 17 January 2008 - 06:05 PM

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konno81,

It`s up to your decision whether to change or not. The SC recommends
60,000KM or 2 years.

60,000KM or 2 years is the normal interval.
For our "tropical climate" and traffic conditions, we falls
under "special condition", which is recommended to change every 30,000KM
or 1 year.
Also, many Pug owners would most probably advice you to change frequently.

Anyway, as mentioned, the decision is still up to you.

-----

"to...but andy, this means that if i change at 30k, maybe i need to
change at 40K,50K and 60K isn`t
it? "
Er...no... you change EVERY 30K,... means...
30K - 60K - 90K - 120K and so on...
But also note on the duration, means if it`s going to be 1 year since
your last change, advice you to change it, then start your countdown of
30K or 1 year again after your ATF change.


#27
konno81

Posted 21 January 2008 - 05:35 PM

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andy...

went to S&C last friday (i took MC-if my bos knew that i took MC to send my car i'm Dead...hehhe)
got my car checked....

they adviced me to change the gearbox oil and reset my car....n the result.. yes, during weekend,
the Snow n Sport didn't blink...i'm happy Big Smile heheh...so far so good...

they charged me rm180.50 (ATF=161.00, Labor=19.50)

so i should read this forum more frequent rite...???? heheheSmile

thank a lot..Big Smile

#28
Andy214

Posted 22 January 2008 - 10:40 AM

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Hehe, actually, it was your car on MC, hehehe... =P

Great news for your car, hopefully that really solves the problem (and
the problem don't come back again *touching the wood*). Make sure your
change your gearbox Oil within the next 30,000KM or 1 year the next time.

1. How was the gearbox oil condition, did you check or ask the mechanic?
2. Did you ask the mechanic for information on the AL4? E.g. Problems,
Oil Change interval, etc? And also, what to do if you encounter these
situations so to prevent damage to the gearbox.
3. How did you find the place and expertise there? It's a Peugeot 3S
after all...


#29
konno81

Posted 22 January 2008 - 09:39 PM

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haha..yup...

1. How was the gearbox oil condition, did you check or ask the mechanic?
-he didn't say anything about the gearbox, he only say it's okay...preferebly change every year..

2. Did you ask the mechanic for information on the AL4? E.g. Problems,
Oil Change interval, etc? And also, what to do if you encounter these
situations so to prevent damage to the gearbox.
-no, didn't cross my mind....huhu Clown

3. How did you find the place and expertise there? It's a Peugeot 3S
after all...
-i asked and email to C&C regarding the place...they sent the adress and i fortunately found it...

Approve

thanks again...hopefully anybody who encounter this problem can share the info...



#30
intermilan

Posted 25 January 2008 - 04:30 PM

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if got xtra mullah can drain n top up ATF again after 500~1000km. this is
to get rid of the dirt as much as possible. but i dont think its that
necessary, but i done it once.

i change my ATF every 30K km. or is it 20K km?.. emm..?
dont care, as long as the oil remains good. in fact just did it in less
than a month ago. and the oil that came out is 80% CLEAN n CLEAR. not
dark / black at all.

Me using Total long life ATF now, just trying it out, as its was told to
be a 'copy' of the original Peugeot ATF oil a.k.a. Esso LT71141.

Checked the PDS and both ATF characteristics is apple-to-apple except for
Dynamic Viscosity @ -40c figure and the Dexron grade. Total is Dexron III
n synthetic-based (fully?) whereas PEUGEOT/ESSO is Dexron IID and
strongly rumoured to be only semi-synthetic.

Which one is better? Whichever that is cheaper coz believe both are the
same. Just change em' regularly and pray for the best.

But be sure they fill it to the correct level and do it according to the
right procedure.

Flushing?? its expensive..... very expensive .... usually wasting around
12L of ATF.... how much is that in RM?.. and we've heard AL4 g/box
encounter problem after the procedure. Well, i dont know if its the
flushing that '100% sure' cause it but...